San Marino 2015: An Island Country in the Sea of Italy

During the 2002 Olympics in addition to the all the Russian speaking countries I managed, I was lucky enough to get a few single athlete countries - Andorra, Monaco and San Marino. Admittedly, I had to look on a map to see where all of those countries were located. I was smitten and vowed to visit them all someday. I made it to Monaco during the Games and so the "island" country of San Marino was next - the main reason I stayed in Bologna for 2 nights.

San Marino is an enclave city state surrounded by Italy. To get there, I had to first take a train to Rimini. Mainly a beach town, Rimini was dirty and otherwise non-nondescript. It was, however, full of Russian tourists (and a really nice waitress at Burger King - I know, yuck. But I have learned to utilize clean bathrooms at fast food restaurants for the price of a drink.) After a windy bus ride up the mountain, I encountered even more Russians in San Marino. They were all bundled up against the 55 degree weather while I was pealing off layers and even got a bit sunburned. Some things never change! To be fair, the Italians were just as bundled...it must just be a Utah thing. I am finally getting the hang of the Italian train system and even ventured out to get my own tickets from the self-service machines. I love trains!



I have always been drawn to walled cities with towers and winding cobbled streets. San Marino had all three! Most of the shops were closed with so few tourists around, but that was just fine with me. I was there for the sights not the shopping and it was nice to be one of maybe 50 tourists climbing the steps between towers. And climb I did! Amazing how the aches and pains of the day before seemed to disappear long enough to huff and puff my way up and up and up. It was an unforgettable sight!

A hazy day made for fuzzy photos, but it was still spectacular to be up on the mountain top hiking between these two imposing towers. The actual town of San Marino had streets no wider than the ones in Venice, but were far steeper and harder on the knees than were the bridges over numerous canals. I stopped back into Burger King before catching the train back to Bologna. I talked a bit with the same waitress, her broken English being far better than my minuscule Italian. I tried some non-traditional chicken wings and jalapeno-cheese bites - she even threw in a bag of kid-size french fries for free. Pays to be nice! Now I have to make it to Andorra...

Italy 2015: Churches,Towers and Nutella

Monday morning and a misty rain surrounded Venice. I had a few hours before my train and decided to try and find the Acqua Alta bookshop. I had an address (but that means nothing in Venice if you aren't at San Marco or the Rialto) and a rough pinpoint on a map. Needless to say, I gave up after about 45 minutes of getting not-so-wonderfully lost. I did get a few more photos to make a lasting impression of this unique city.  Not sure if it was the yogurt from breakfast, or the "insalate russe" from dinner, but something made me really ill, really fast. Surrounded by water but no toilette in site, I made it back to the hotel in the nick of time. Good thing I had Pepto pills with me to calm my wrenching stomach.

After a two hour train ride I was in Bologna. Still feeling ill, but determined to see the city, I walked down to the Neptune Fountain (complete with a lactating nereid). Another symbol of Bologna are the Two Towers. It was almost impossible to actually get a photo of them due to the surrounding buildings, a spiderweb of cables and recent road construction.












In the same basic area was the Basilica of St. Petronino, imposing and impressive by any measure. This one looked just as big on the inside as it did the outside. I sure gain much more of an appreciation of open churches with benches inside when I travel in Europe and walk EVERYWHERE!

Last stop was the Church of St. Stefano - seven churches in one and a very simple, old world feel to the buildings. Truly a sanctuary in the middle of a bustling city. The Gregorian chants echoing throughout the building were a nice touch. With all the walking over the past few days my sore feet and unsettled stomach enticed me to call it a day and to head back to the Hotel Donatello - great location 10 minutes from the train station and a pretty nice room. A COOP store was nearby and so I picked up something simple - a baguette with mozzarella and tomatoes. I took the top off so I had something to dip into my Nutella (I am pretty sure it is cure for all that ails you). The plan is to take the train out to San Marino tomorrow morning...

  

Italy 2015 - Sunday on the Islands of the Lagoon

With the exception of Carnevale, February and March should still be "low tourist season" in Venice. I guess that only applies to Sunday mornings. I was out the door by 7:30am, determined to have the city to myself for awhile. I met the occasional dog walker and a few tourists with early departures on my way to San Marco. Several Asian tourists, "selfie stick" in hand, were already taking photos of the square when I arrived. I am a bit "old school" and tend rely on propping my camera on a ledge with the self timer if I want to be in the photo.

Needless to say, it had such a different feeling without all the hoards of tourists, almost serene. I was surprised to find that it was after 9am when I returned for breakfast - one of the better ones I have had on my travels. Fueled up and ready to go out again, I stopped into the church of Santa Maria Assunta, known as I Gesuiti on the way to the vaporetto stop. It was Sunday, after all, and so I decided for a few moments of silence and reflection. The rest of Venice had woken up and I think they were all on my boat to Burano. The sky was still a bit hazy, but the bright colors of the homes and shops could not be dulled. Initially a fishing village, Burano is know for is lace making. I was just there for the photos.















It is no wonder that the center of glass blowing would have a huge glass sculpture in the main square. It was quite a stunning site to see. With its natural brick buildings, Murano is quite a contrast to its candy-colored neighbor. I wasn't tempted by any glass objects this time, probably good since this is the beginning of my trip and it would have been tough keeping them in one piece. Murano does have some of my favorite byzantine-style windows. I think I would come again and again just to see them.

After about 4 hours of walk time, I hobbled back to my hotel room. A thirty minute power nap, rejuvenated my body and so I wet out to catch the sunset over the Grand Canal. Venice really embodies a "timeless" city...you can take photos today that look just as ones taken at the turn of the century (or the turn of the century before that.)

I missed seeing the Bridge of Sighs yesterday, so I went for a photo this evening. Legend has it that if lovers kiss under the bridge they will be granted eternal love and bliss (as the bells of St. Mark's tower toll.) I might have jumped in one of the gondolas (the $100 per ride was too steep on a UVU salary) if I thought it would help my cause... As I watched the gondoliers slowly pass under the bridge as if on some underwater conveyer belt, it reminded me of the boat ride at Disneyland's Pirates of the Caribbean ride, minus the waterfall at the end.

One more sunrise, and then I am off to Bologna!