Italy 2012: Sirens off the Isle of Capri

For some reason my second day of jet lag is always the worst. I woke up at 1am, sure that I had slept 8 hours, but sadly only 2. Thanks to a MTV-type TV channel and a few chapters of Rutherfurd’s  “The Princes of Ireland” (I know, I should be reading something more Italian, but Ireland is one of my weaknesses) I fell back to sleep around 3am. By 7am, I was awake and acutely aware that my head cold was back in full force and I was out of medicine. Good thing there are many flashing neon green Pharmacy lights in town.

I found a café nearby with wi-fi, so I bought my token thick ‘n rich hot chocolate, sent emails and updated my blog. It was a good 2.50 euro well spent. I visited a few Sorrento sights that I missed my first day – namely, the Old Mill in the grotto and the Hotel Victoria Gardens.


The old mill - in a grotto right in the middle of the city.

In the afternoon I took the hydrofoil to the famed Isle of Capri (with the accent on the “a” not the “i”as I was reminded - getting strange looks from the locals when asking for directions to the marina.) While waiting for the boat, eating my bread with cheese and green olives, I met a couple from Indiana. This morning over breakfast it was a retiree from Las Vegas who was spending 6 weeks in Sorrento and another solo lady from Alberta, Canada who was heading to Indonesia next. They make me look like quite the travel novice.

Marina Piccolo - I set sail to Capri from here.

As the boat pulled away from the hazy mainland, I was reminded of the sirens, famed to be roaming the waters off the coast of Sorrento and Capri. This tale is attributed to Ulysses and his trip to the area during his great Odyssey. I found this excerpt earlier this week:

" 'So far so good,' said she, when I had ended my story, 'and now pay attention to what I am about to tell you- heaven itself, indeed, will recall it to your recollection. First you will come to the Sirens who enchant all who come near them. If anyone unwarily draws in too close and hears the singing of the Sirens, his wife and children will never welcome him home again, for they sit in a green field and warble him to death with the sweetness of their song. There is a great heap of dead men's bones lying all around, with the flesh still rotting off them. Therefore pass these Sirens by, and stop your men's ears with wax that none of them may hear; but if you like you can listen yourself, for you may get the men to bind you as you stand upright on a cross-piece half way up the mast, and they must lash the rope's ends to the mast itself, that you may have the pleasure of listening. If you beg and pray the men to unloose you, then they must bind you faster. – The Odyssey, Book XII



The marina of Capri.

Lucky for me, no siren’s in site. However, compared to my trips yesterday, Capri was a bit disappointing. Maybe it was the fact that I was stuffed up and my throat hurt miserably. I forgot to stop by the pharmacy before leaving for the island, and really just wanted to get back to Sorrento.  But, I was on Capri, after all. I needed to try and experience as much as I could in a few hours. The sun was the hottest it has been since I arrived and tourists invaded the tiny port town like so many pirates in ancient times.

I opted for the funicular (vertical cable car) and wandered around a bit in the winding hilltop streets and alley ways. Some were back doors to dentist and hair dressers, but the larger ones were full of posh retail shops – one of the reasons Capri has a jet set reputation.



I kept running into Russians -  strolling by the fancy shops and swimming in the sea.

As gravity would have it, the walk back down to the marina was downhill, extremely downhill. I ended the 30 minute trek with wobbly knees and burning calves. I decided to join the group of Russians and Japanese tourists wading in the Capri waters. The tartly refreshing lemon granita was just what I needed to regain my strength.

With plenty of Russians around, asking someone to take my photo was pretty easy.

One more day full of walking will make the Cinque Terre trails that much easier next week. Back to Sorrento on the hydrofoil and a quick stop at the pharmacy for head drugs, the market for more water and Aranciatella soda, and the neighborhood pizza joint for Italian fast food.  Now, just waiting for the medicine to take effect. I opted to go to bed early and hopefully, have more energy for tomorrow’s adventures in the urban sprawl of Napoli.

Italy 2012: From ruins to relaxation

At around 10am on the morning of August 25, 79 A.D., Mt. Vesuvius awoke, spewing deadly ash and mud over the once bustling merchant city of Pompeii. I heard about this amazing archaeological site years ago on a travel program and even then, had a difficult time looking at the plaster casts of victims caught in the agony and fear as the ash engulfed them. To see the casts in person, still affects me. Until I actually visited the site, I had no idea of the great size of the city, nor of the preserved state it was in after excavation. 2000 of the nearly 20,000 residents of this city died in the eruption. The second day the debris continued to fall and molten mud took out a neighboring city of Herculaneum.


Morning in Pompeii



I arrived at the entrance of Pompeii early, about 30 minutes after opening, and hoped I could miss the hordes of tourists sure to come. I was able to avoid most, and listen in when I passed by an obviously important site.

Plaster cast of the hollowed out form left by one of the volcano's victims.

Frescoes on the dining room walls of one of the wealthier homes.

I was impressed by the beautiful frescoes and mosaics still visible and the imposing stone roads, complete with crossing stones to avoid the rubbish and waste being continually washed down the street. I spent about 2 hours wandering in and out of homes, shops and forums. When I left the masses had arrived and the ticket line was wrapped around the street. I decided one ruined town was enough for me, so I scratched the plan to go to Herculaneum and headed back to Sorrento for a quick bite and a change of clothes (it was much warmer than I thought it would be.)

The Theater at Pompeii

Positano was beckoning me...

Only about 30 minutes along a harrowing hairpin road, Positano hugs the cliffs along the Amalfi Coast. I got off on the first bus stop in town and walked about 30 minutes, sharing the same skinny road with two way traffic. It was all downhill and I had some amazing views as I neared the beach. I am working up to walking the Cinque Terre trails next week, so it was a good way to ease into all-day walking.

Walking down to Positano.

Almost to the beach.

I recently watched the Italian film, Il Postino again and remember a line Mario Ruoppolo says referring to his love, “Your laugh is a sudden silvery wave.”  I saw such waves on the small, but inviting beach in Positano. It lived up to my romantic vision of the town. A few boats were moored a ways out and swimmers and sun bathers filled in the rest of the bay. I kicked off my shoes and had a “Positano pedicure”, painfully walking along the pebbles and rocks (no real sand to be found near the water).


Picture Perfect Positano.

Walking in the water was a very refreshing end to my trek down the cliff to the beach. I was lucky to be there as the sun was setting, bathing the terraced town in warm Mediterranean light.

Definitely a postcard-perfect day.

Italy 2012: Sorrento - land of lemons and green olives

It is 8pm – Sorrento time – and I am starting off my 12 days of “ la dolce vita” with my dessert. Nutella and Tuc crackers. As soon as I find wi-fi I will post this entry.

But I am getting ahead of myself…

9 hours in a 10-seat-across Boing 777 is rarely an enjoyable experience.  However, this time, it was. OK, enjoyable may be a bit strong, but I just wanted to point out how little things can really make a big impression. I flew into Houston and checked into my Air France / Delta code share flight to a Paris. When I did, the agent asked me if I wanted to move up a couple of seats to a row that was empty. The flight was not full and chances are I would be able to lay down. I jumped at it and when I settled in I staked my claim on the entire row as obviously as I could. I wanted to lay down on at least 3 of the 4 seats as soon as we reached 35,000 feet. I made my move, even before we were served dinner – which, by the way, was some of the best airplane food I have ever had, first class included. Only on a flight to France would you get veal sautéed in mushrooms and edamame salad. In the middle of the flight a little lady settled into the end seat so I did my best to keep my feet to myself. I am not sure I actually slept, but I was able to not sit the entire way.  I also loved how the pilot said the word “Boeing” - it was more like the sound Tigger makes when he bounces on his tail, instead of the name of an air line company. Oh, simple joys.

The misty valleys near Naples - view from the plane.

After switching planes in Paris, I flew into Naples with a great view of the only active volcano on mainland Europe, Mt. Vesuvius.  It hasn’t erupted since around WWII, so I hope it is not due for another any time soon.  I caught the bus from the airport directly to the main train station. I had the impression that Naples would be a bit on the rough side, and it was. I have one day there before I head up North go form a proper opinion. I bought my ticket for the Cinque Terre on Monday, and then made my way to the Circumvesuviana train station.  The train, more like a Russian electrichka, was packed with loud, obnoxious teenagers, tourists from every country on the globe and commuters heading home for the day. I was happy I packed light.


Sorrento - Tasso Square

Doors and a bike

Sorrento - land of lemons and green olives. My hotel, Hotel Nice (like the French city), is really quite nice. It is literally a few steps from the train station and a few more steps from a full service supermarket. Only one official “star” rating, but I think that must be because it doesn't have Wi-Fi. It has high ceilings, air conditioning, a large bathroom (although the shower is only about 2 feet by 2 feet with a door about 1 foot wide) and an elevator. The staff is friendly and already remember my room number each time I leave and pick up my key. I wandered around town a bit that evening and picked up some food at a nearby supermarket.



Vesuvius and and a very photogenic seagull.

It is really a lovely town, not quite the charm of Venice, but still a great place to unpack and relax for a few days. I want to stay awake until at least 9pm to fight my jet lag and so walking to near exhaustion was my best bet.

Tomorrow. Pompeii.