Spain 2015: Arrivederci-Au Revior-Adios-A Reveure

I was out the door by 7:00am. I wanted to see the Gothic Quarter without all the tourists. It worked - was just me and a few locals walking their dogs through the winding streets. Of course, I had to go back to visit my favorite street just behind the Barcelona Cathedral.




















The next stop was along Passage de Gracia to see two more Gaudi creations. The first came into view just as the sun was breaking over the tall buildings. Known as La Pedera, this reminded me of something Dr. Seuss might have concocted. I imagine that the curious beings on the roof are chimney covers. I especially like the tangled wrought iron balconies. Walking down the boulevard is like thumbing through the pages of a high end fashion magazine...starting with Gucci, Prada and Furla and ending with Timberland and Levis.

Not too many streets away is another of Gaudi's residential buildings, Casa Batllo. The balconies on this building look more like skulls and the roof like the spine of a dragon. I loved the intricate tile work covering the facade, especially the pastel colors he used. I was left with a few hours before transferring to my hotel near the airport, so I walked back up to the La Sagrada Familia. I didn't really have any photos of the entire structure in my earlier post since it was covered in scaffolding. But I realized it that the sheer size of the building is just as amazing as the architecture itself. The church has been under construction since 1892 and isn't expected to be completed until 2030. Incredible.

So, I finally say goodbye to Barcelona (by the Arch of Triumph near my hotel) and to Europe. It has been an amazing 2 weeks, but I am ready to sleep in my own bed and to wear something else for a change! The hotel I am staying at is another nice one - I am glad I brought my swimming suit. I had the pool and sauna all to myself. It is amazing what $20 more will get you in a hotel. Next time, I am finally giving up on the budget options. I am getting too old for that!

Time to start planning (and saving for) my next adventure...Scotland - Iceland - The Greek Isles or maybe back to Scandinavia?

Spain 2015: From Las Ramblas to Christopher Columbus

Las Ramblas is a central boulevard that cuts through the heart of Barcelona. It is full of flower vendors, candy stalls, but most of all people. I stopped in La Boqueria market at the halfway point for some fresh strawberries and a few bon-bons...needless to say they don't always tell you there is a little liqueur inside. Wow!




As I made my way down Las Ramblas, I saw the famous dragon above the former umbrella shop and finally the Column in honor of Christopher Columbus, who sailed from Barcelona on his voyage to the New World. I was rambled out, so I decided to head back to my hotel and relax.

So I took one of the miniature side streets that led into the Gothic Quarter. It was reminiscent of all the other old town centers I had seen in Italy and France - houses nestled up against one another with the narrowest of walkways in between. I was especially happy to have stumbled across the beautiful connecting bridge near the Cathedral of Barcelona. Since it cost 7eruo to actually enter the church, I decided to pass and save the remaining euros for my last day in Spain.

Spain 2015: Bon Dia Güell

Despite the fact that Barcelona is the capitol of the Catalonia region of Spain and has a language all there own, my 7th grade Spanish is at least getting some use on this trip. It is amazing how much comes back to you when you are trying to communicate (unfortunately, Russian still tries to creep in.)

After an introduction to Antonio Gaudi yesterday at La Familia, I decided to tackle another Gaudi spot. This time it was the famous modernist escape - Park Güell. I had seen pictures of some of the Gaudi's mosaic tile buildings and dripping cement archways, but it is quite a different thing to see them in person. The salamander statue (some people call it the "dragon") was more popular than Micky Mouse - everyone wanted their picture taken with it! I really enjoyed seeing the mosaic medallions by all the columns and, of course, the frosting-like roof tiles.

I have dabbled a bit with some mosaic creations so it was even more interesting for me to see these amazing structures. It made me want to go home and smash up some plates and make a mosaic wall. The hike was once again a HIKE up San Francisco-style streets and staircases, with an occasional escalator thrown in. As unknowing tourists, we walked first up to a cross on the top hill for fuzzy views of the city, then descended into the actual park. I really earned my lunch of nachos and churros!

Even at 10:30am the visitors were abundant - many Japanese tourists, local school children and several Anglophiles like myself. It was a task to get a photo without someone else in it. The sky was hazy again, so most of the bright colors of the tiles didn't really come through in the photos. I spent over 2 hours there and could have probably relaxed on a bench for much longer, but there were more sites to see...

Spain 2015: Just A Bit Gaudi in Barcelona

Before catching the train to Barcelona - the land of Gaudi - I walked down to see the Roman temple "Maison Carree" in the heart of Nimes, France. The town was still asleep on this Sunday morning, so I had the place to myself. I also took a closer look at the statues on the fountain in the main square - beautiful.

Now to Spain. I had the entire TVG train car to myself so I moved around from side to side to see France turn into Spain. It looked like flamingos were even wading in the marshy waters. 

I arrived at the main train station - Barcelona Sants - bought my 2 day transport pass and hopped on the metro. I decided to move up my price range to $70 a night and I really lucked out. The Hotel Catalonia is located in the Born district just a few steps away from the Arc de Triomf. I wanted to jump right into the huge tub as soon as I arrived, but I decided to stick to the plan and go to see the Gaudi Cathedral - Sagrada Familia. 

It is an imposing, almost liquid structure whose towers look like they are dripping candle wax. I paid the almost 20 euro for the entrance fee and a trip up the towers. There is an elevator that takes you to the top of one of the towers. I was able to walk out onto the front of the tower to take some photos of the city and then spent most of the reminder of the time walking down an extremely narrow spiral staircase. Occasionally, I got glimpses of the city as I descended, but mainly I was just thinking about how my ankles were aching, at least my knees were in good shape! 

 

Once inside the church, I sat in the prayer section in the middle and tried to find some Sunday calm. It was difficult with the Korean tour guide pointing out every nook and cranny to his group, rather loudly. I have been inside many different churches throughout Europe and have never encountered anything like this one. It was a lot to take in - from the tree-like columns branching heavenward to the kaleidoscope stained glass windows. An hour and a half later, I finally dragged myself back to my hotel. I am in for a very good nights sleep tonight! 

France 2015: Gladiators in Nimes and Knights in Aigues-Mortes

It is Saturday in France. This means most trains and many buses in this smaller city don't operate. I had hoped to see the Pont du Gard (a roman built ancient aqueduct) or the medieval walled city of Aigues-Mortes. Medieval walled cities win every time. The train was not running at all today, so I would have to take the bus. 

With time before departure I was able to climb the steps and wander the corridors of the Arena in Nimes. It is one of the best preserved arenas in all of France, maybe even Italy. The tour is interspersed with multi-media presentations that really bring the arena's history to life. The elliptical Roman amphitheatre, of the 1st or 2nd century AD, is the best-preserved Roman arena in France. It was filled with medieval housing, when its walls served as ramparts. It is still used today as a bull fighting and concert arena. It always amazes me to see such ancient structures and the transformations they endured.

I am so happy I chose to visit Aigues-Mortes (guess Pont du Gard will have to wait until next time...) I had no idea that it would be such a charming place with shops and cafes inside the walls and a walk up top along the ramparts. Most of the tourists were French, with an occasional English speaking visitor like myself. It took the better part of an hour to walk around the entire city. The shops were full of both provincial trinkets and souvenirs from the Petite Camargue region. I saw several mini knights with wooden swards striking down pinwheels and stone fish in the fountains. Once again I walked and climbed until I could barely hobble back to the bus stop. It was a good day.

France 2015: Nimes - Bullfights and Macarons

The TVG train to Marseille was wonderful - announcements in 3 languages, peace and quite, and a second story view of the Cote d'Azur passing by. I stopped briefly in Marseille to change trains - this time onto one of the intercity trains, a little less nice. The sun was bright, brighter than it has been the entire trip and, of course, people were still wrapped up for winter!

The Hotel Cesar in Nimes is literally steps from the train station. It is not as upscale as my Venice hotel, but it is clean, has an elevator, wifi, and the staff are helpful even with broken English. I visited the neighboring provincial town of Arles 8 years ago with my mom. Like Arles, Nimes has a roman arena dominating the center of the city - more used for Spanish-style bullfights these days than for gladiators. I hope to take a look inside tomorrow. I found a Monoprix and stocked up on food for the next couple of days - water, crepes, yogurt, green olives, chevre cheese and hummus. I still had some strawberries from the Nice market and Nutella from Italy.

I also found my way into a patisserie complete with a decadent selection of French macaroons. I spent as much on 7 macaroons as I did on my entire food purchase (10 euro), but oh, the delight of those macaroons! I am rationing myself to one a day.

France 2015: Escalier or Ascenseur: Scaling Castle Hill

I woke up early so I had no excuse not to make the trek up to the top of Castle Hill. The little tourist train my mom and I had taken up when we visited Nice didn't start running until 10am so it was either the elevator inside the mountain or the stairs all the way up. I was fine with taking the elevator - nothing to prove. On the way to the hill, I walked through the Cours Saleya market with flower and fruit sellers just setting up for the day...and a frou-frou dog patiently waiting.

Next to the Hotel Suisse was the elevator. However, next to the ascenseur sign was the schedule saying it opened at 10am. Doesn't anything open before 10am in France? So nothing left to do but start climbing stairs - there were a lot more stairs than the ones showing in my photo... I took several "photo breaks" on the way up to disguise my need rest my legs. I even met a few locals along the way out for a run or to walk their dogs. Nothing like seeing Nice from above!

Stopped into McDonalds on the way back to my hotel for the best hot chocolate ever!  All it took was hot frothy milk and a packet of coco.