Switzerland 2012: Auf Wiedersehen or "Its time to go home"

Winter, Spring, Summer...what happened to Fall?

When I started my journey 10 days ago, lemons and olives were on the trees and cool sea breezes eased the humid heat of the afternoons on the Amalfi Coast. Rain finally fell once I reached Milan in northern Italy, but it still felt like spring weather rather than autumn. I woke up this morning to a blanket of snow covering the geraniums in the quaint Swiss window boxes. Quite a shock to my system still not ready for winter.

Window in Zurich.

But a little snow never stopped my exploring - I lived in Finland, Russia and Utah, after all. I stared early and went down to the Zurich harbor to catch a boat for a river cruise, which was included in the price of my 24 Zurich Card. Along with about 20 others, I cruised up and down the snowy shoreline for a hour and a half. Once again, I found myself straining to see the shore of the lake, this time through the snow falling softly and steadily instead of just fog like on Lake Como.



House on Lake Zurich.



Colorful burgher houses in Zurich.

After a bit of wandering the almost empty streets, I headed to the Swiss National Museum to explore a fascinating exhibit called Kapital: history of commerce from Venice and Amsterdam in the 1100's to the modern dynamics of the USA and China. It was very well presented and even had a globe, minus Australia (before it had been discovered.) With a few minutes left on my 24 hour card, I went to the Helmshaus to see some modern Swiss paintings and get a view of the gray city from above.

View of Zurich from the Helmshaus.

I try to spend my Sundays when I travel in museums and local churches. Fraumunster Cathedral is a beautiful building in its own right, but the real highlights are the stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. Filled with biblical images and bold, bright colors, it was easy to get lost in them, trying to identify familiar stories. I just wish I was allowed to take photos inside. A very active (for lack of a better word) church Nazi was wandering around making sure no one broke the rules. She almost pounced on a man with a crying baby, who stopped crying before she could usher them outside into the snow.

Fraumunster Cathedral

The only photo I could take in the entry way of Fraumunster Cathedral.

Speaking of snow, it snowed continually all day long. Wet and cold, I went to find some lunch/dinner in the train station - the only place open on Sunday. All of Zurich and tourists from every country on the globe were there as well. With a dose of CNN and BBC News, I am now up to speed on the events of the day. Hopefully, "Sandy" wont interfere with my return flight and I will be sleeping in my own bed by Monday night.



Switzerland 2012: Zurich = Snow

After a beautiful train ride through the Italian/Swiss Alps, I arrived in Zurich in the afternoon. Road signs and business banners changed from Italian to German as I went north. Besides the blast of cold air, I was greeted by an enormous "Guardian Angel" hanging from the ceiling of the Zurich main train station.


Alpine village in Switzerland.

My hotel, The Welcome Inn, is near the airport - about a 15 minute ride from downtown Zurich and still my most expensive hotel yet. But then, I am in Zurich, so that is to be expected. It is like living in Vancouver again :) I have to admit, I was a bit suprised to see men rushing past wearing lederhosen...I guess Oktoberfest lasts all year long around these parts.



House front with frescoes

I bought the 24 hour Zurich Card and have already made up the cost within the first 4 hours. It was raining when I left my hotel at around 3:30pm and snowing when I arrived in Zurich. I decided to find someplace warm and less snowy for the evening. Best option was the Kunsthaus Zurich. There was a Chagall exhibit - only a few paintings, but I really relate to his work and wanted to check it out. Turns out, the whole of Zurich had the same idea (entrance was free today.) They also had a collection of several impressionist painters, including a classic cypress painting by Van Gogh and a huge misty painting of the pond in Giverny by Monet.

Marc Chagall



Van Gogh

I wasn't really prepared for snow and my layers were proving less than effective, so I called it an early night and headed back to my hotel. I didn't have internet access in Milan, so I wanted to catch up on some of my blog entries. Tomorrow will be my last day in Europe, so I am going to bundle up and see the rest of Zurich in the morning. I had planned on going on a day trip to Liechtenstein, but guess I will save that for another time...

Italy 2012: Lake Como - Sometimes the journey is the destination.

It was 23 degrees Celsius (about 73 degrees) when I got back to my hotel last night. This morning I woke up to rain and almost 10 degrees cooler. Looks like Fall finally caught up with me. Looks like I am going to get some use out of my jeans, jacket and umbrella. I caught the morning train for the 1 hour ride up to Lake Como. Rain and fog, not the ideal conditions for an open air ferry ride up from Como to Bellagio. But, if the rain had come yesterday, I would not have been able to access the Duomo rooftop – stone gets rather slippery in the rain and they don’t allow visitors up, thankfully.

Lake Como town through the foggy rain.

Ferry stop just before Bellagio.

I am sure the views along the lake are breathtaking, but the fog was so heavy, I couldn’t see the mountain tops or even the other side of the shore. When we neared the docks, I finally saw the beautiful towns, somehow forgotten by time. I took the slow ferry for the 2 hour trip to Bellagio. Today, the journey was the destination.

At the ferry stop.

Bellagio was quaint, small, hilly and a bit touristy. But after an hour, after some great pizza and lemon soda, the rainy cold was settling into my bones so I took the fast ferry back to Como (only 45 minutes this time.) I had a bit of time before my return train, so I visited the Duomo in Como and some of the back streets for photos. It was hard to enjoy it with the cold rain and soggy pant legs, so I made it an early day and went back to Milan.

The Como Duomo.

I guess it is good that the rain came on my last day in Italy, makes it easier to leave. Tomorrow I am heading north again, this time to Switzerland and Zurich. Think I will have to layer on a bit more to keep warm this time. 

Italy 2012: A view without a room: Milan

I always did like a good market – especially one with local character. The Mercato Orientale was only a few doors down from my hotel in Genoa. Not very Oriental these days, but still a very lively market. I found some foccacia with green and black olives baked in (my new weakness) and some Genovese pesto to try when I get home.

Mercato Orientale

I packed up and got the afternoon train to Milan. I originally thought I would go to visit my friend Francesca in Torino, but she wasn’t coming back from London until next month, so Milan was my alternate choice. It was still muggy and hot when I got out of the subway. After walking in circles for about 15 minutes, I finally found the Hotel Malta. Back down to one star (hotels were much more pricey in Milan), I hiked up to the 3rd floor, unloaded my gear and then took the subway down to the Duomo.

Hotel Malta in Milan.

The Milan Duomo, truly a sight to be experienced. I was here 9 years ago with my friend Dani and the Duomo still remains one of my most powerful Italian memories . The inside is impressive, massive and awe inspiring. However, it is the trip to the roof top that took my breath away.  I didn’t walk all the way up this time, there was a lift going part way up. I had forgotten just how amazing it is to walk out onto a stone roof, under archways and alongside gargoyles. The access they give is amazing. You can wander along one side and up to the top of the main cathedral. There was a haze creeping over much of the city that afternoon, so I couldn’t see very far into the distance. But that didn’t matter. Just being up there was otherworldly. I stayed for about 30 minutes, just gazing for every angle possible. Amazing.

Atop the Milan Duoom.

My view without a room.

View of Milan from atop the Duomo.

I was the only one in the elevator on the way down. As the doors were closing, the attendant said, "See (pointing to himself,) like John Travolta" and gave me an Italian two-cheeked hug. I didn't see the resemblance. Maybe his name was John too, maybe it was just a long day and he was trying to keep things interesting. I didn’t have much daylight when I touched ground, but I went to check out the Castle (Castello Sforzesco) for a bit of contrast to the Duomo.  Ancient and rugged, it had a more medieval feel to it.

Castello Sforzesco



I had to stop by yet another pharmacy that night, all out of cold medicine and this one was not giving up easily. It was quite a game of charades this time, but the pharmacist figured out my pantomime and I went home with more decongestant. I plan on spending the afternoon on Lake Como, so I need not to be sick!

Italy 2012: Genoa: Somewhere between Venice and St. Petersburg

It was hard to say goodbye to the Cinque Terre and my lovely little hotel by the sea, but it had to be done. Genoa was waiting.


My not-so-hard earned "Cinque Terre Trekking" t-shirt.

As soon as I stepped out of the Brignole Centrale Train Station, I knew it was going to be a beautiful place to spend the next 24 hours. A short walk from the station, the Hotel Astro is on the 5th floor of a stylish old building filled with lawyers, psychologists and other businesses. I was told I would be in the La Marinara room (each room has a different motif to the décor). Yes. I was sleeping in the sea. I think I might have nightmares of the lobster and crabs hanging on the wall in front of my bed.

Don't think I have ever slept with plastic crustaceans on the wall before...

I collected my strength and headed out to explore a bit of Genova’s old town. My hotel is located on XX Settembre  - one of the main shopping districts in town. Immediately, I was reminded of Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg. Since so much of that city was designed by Italian architects as well, it is not surprising how familiar it felt. Being a major port city, like Venice was, Genoa also has a lot of eastern influences in their windows and embellishments.The best of both worlds.


The city felt 100 times safer and more inviting than when I strolled through Naples a few days earlier. My walk took me past Ferrari square (there was also a Corvette square), down Lorenzo Street and onto the harbor. I guess I should not have been surprised to find a pirate galleon tied up to the dock – considering the Cinque Terre's reputation.

The street outside my hotel - Via XX Setembre, Genoa.

Building by the harbor with beautiful frescos.

A galleon ship in Genoa's harbor.

 I donned my tourist cap (figuratively, not literally) and hopped on “Il trenino pippo, il primo a Genova”. Well , maybe not THE best, but it was the cheapest and the tackiest little tour train I could find. It gave a good overview of the city and I was able to get better oriented than with just a map in hand. I found a little church, San Pietro in Biachini. The entire exterior was covered in fresco paining, as was the building behind it.

San Pietro Church

Lions outside San Lorenzo Cathedral.

I then traced my steps back to San Lorenzo Cathedral to admire the black white stonework and rather sad looking lion. I found THE best gelato at Fruit and Nut – pistachio, tiramisu, and chocolate chip. I am glad I waited until Monterosso for my first taste of gelato, it will be hard not to try some in  Milan now. Genoa, the home of Christopher Columbus and a town I would like to spend more time in the next time I am back this way.

Italy 2012: Pirates and Hillside Harbors

Vernazza in the morning.

 You know a place is worth coming back to when you start planning your next trip back before this one is even over. The Cinque Terre just moved onto my "All time, favorite places in Italy" list along with Venice, Florence and Lucca. 

Despite the fact that the main trails were all closed between the towns, there was PLENTY of hiking to be done just to and from the train stations and within the towns themselves - after all, I had to earn my "Cinqua Terra Trekking" t-shirt with some actually trekking. It turns out, I was able to wander onto sea ledges, up stone steps and behind mini garden plots to find a few vantage points for taking photos from a distance - without actually being on the "official" trail.


Boats in Vernazza.

First stop for today: Vernazza. I can see why everyone talks about Vernazza. There is something magical about emerging from the tunnel onto a mini train platform, and to then walk into a fairytale sun drenched village. It was market day; cheese, flowers, veggies and a few of the "latest" Italian fashions brought in once a week for the locals. Cars were allowed in to the main street today, otherwise only these funny little 3 wheeled golf-cart-like vehicles buzz around. Once I stepped out onto the big rocks next to the harbor and saw the village from the sea perspective, I was smitten. Up the hill aways is a cafe called "The Pirate of Cinque Terre". Pirates were always looking for an easy town to pillage and seaside villages along the Mediterranean were often raided. In the 11th Century, the presiding Tuscan family decided to move the villages up onto the rocks to make raiding more of a challenge. Guess it worked.

The pirate of Vernazza.

It was time for another town and Corniglia was next. I knew this was the only town without sea access, but I don't think I realized just how far up the town was from the train station. I took the main road, passing one of the grape picking "trains" used in the terraced vineyards surrounding the area. The town itself was quaint, but I am not sure it was worth the hike up. I decided to take the stairs down - all 377. Of course, in my haste to catch the next train, I missed a step and fell, slow motion, onto my knee. Luckily, it was in between people coming up and going down, so I only hurt my knee, and not my pride.

Vineyard "trains" in Corniglia.

The hilltop town of Corniglia.

377 steps down to the train station from Cornigla main square.

Manerola brought me back down by the sea. I hiked up first, for a view of the town from above. I thought I was safe to eat my snack by the bell tower, but was almost accosted by a group of very picture happy Japanese. I decided to see what the harbor was like. It was amazing. There was a sea walk along a narrow path that offered great views of the harbor, packed with boats and tourists.



Manerola's bell tower.

View of Manerola from the sea walk.

It was almost 2:00 and I was running out of steam. One more town left to see today: Riomaggori. I didn't actually go very far into the town itself since I really wanted a sea view of the city. After awhile, all the pastel, compact little town streets start to look the same. I headed out to the harbor and it was rocky and choppy, so more boats parked in the street. Once again, however, it was only a bit of a hike up to a great view point of the harbor.

Boats parked in Riomaggorie main square.

Riomaggori

Finally back in Monterosso, I decided to rest my weary bones and aching feet. Nothing like a dip in the Mediterranean to cure what ails you! I waded in waste high and let the cold water ease my pains. It worked wonders. The sun set behind the "Il Gigante" on the cliff and so I decided to end my day. Relaxed, refreshed and amazed at the sights I saw today.

My hotel in Monterosso al Mare.

I decided to have dinner at the hotel again - another 5 star meal. This time it was canoli stuffed with cream and spinach with buffalo mozzarella on top and veal with green olive marinara sauce. I was in heaven. I normally only eat out once per city - I am traveling on a "shoestring" after all, but this was worth a second time. I was going to go to Portofino before checking into my hotel in Genoa, but I decided I was done with the seaside villages (need to save something for my next trip to the Cinque Terre.) 









Italy 2012: Cinque Terre - amore!

I came. I slept. I left Naples without so much as a quick look behind. The train ride was a long 6 ½ hours but at least it was scenic. I just wish my coughing fits could have waited until after I got off the train – I think the poor Italians riding in the coupe with me thought I was Typhoid Mary :(

I made the quick change in La Spezia and as soon as we passed the first of the Cinque Terre villages, Riomaggori, I knew the day was going to end well. I got a quick glimpse of the other villages each time we emerged from the tunnel before finally reaching Monterosso al Mare. At the train station, I learned that ALL the trails between the Cinque Terre towns were closed. New rain and bad luck made them all impassable. So much for my trekking in Northern Italy. At least I can take the train between the towns and maybe even a boat, if I am lucky.

Monterosso Beach



Il Gigante.

 It was a quick walk up the hill in the New Town to my hotel, Villa Adriana. I have a top floor room with an amazing view of the sea and can almost see the 4 other towns if I look in the distance.  It took only about 20 minutes to wander through the entire Old Town part of Monterosso - tiny streets and old stone buildings. I then followed a path to the old castle and made my way to the beach, before heading back to my hotel.

Montorosso al Mare window.

 

Monterosso al Mare - downtown.


 I didn’t really want to eat in one of the bars along the water, so when I found out my hotel served dinner, I was happy to stay in. This did not mean, however, that I would be playing it safe with my all dinner choices… Dinner began with an antipasta salad buffet; First course: tortellini in broth- AMAZING; Second course: grilled swordfish (I have gotten a bit braver with eating fish since my Canada days - it was swordfish or rabbit – I decided since I was near the sea, I was safe with the seafood); Dessert: strawberry tart with marscapone cheese - yum! All in all, it cost about 15 euro for everything - the same as most other restaurants were charging just for their second course. I love a good deal! I am full and ready to sleep.


The village of Vernazza in the distance.

I hear there is a Tuesday morning market in Vernazza, so I am heading there first. Hope to still get some good photos of each village. It may be tough since I wont be able to get the view from the trails. I have only just begun my time in the Cinque Terre - but I am already in love.

Italy 2012: An afternoon in Naples...

Naples. Honestly, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I left Sorrento later than planned, so by the time I arrived in Naples and found the Hotel Zara, I was too late to try and find the LDS branch. I figured I would spend enough time in churches today that it would give me that “Sunday feeling” regardless. I had been cautioned in many a travel guide to be on my guard in Naples. My hotel is near the train station and the Old Town. The crowded streets nearby were littered with garbage and immigrants selling knock-off Prada bags and Gucci sunglasses. I wanted to hop back on the train and return to Sorrento! But, I decided to stay.

With map in hand I navigated the back streets of Old Town. The buildings were so close together in some places, you could probably leap from one balcony to the next. Laundry hung freely and graffiti covered every free space.



Naples streets in Old Town.

My medicine had worn off and I was miserable again, hot, tired and miserable. I made it to the National Archaeological Museum just in time. The highlight was seeing the halls with artifacts and frescoes from the excavated site of Pompeii. Having visited there earlier, it made an even greater impression. It was amazing to see the bits and pieces from everyday life, cut short in an instant.


Model of Pompeii today

Fresco from one of the villas in Pompeii

By the time I made it out of the museum, I felt like I was coughing up a lung. I took a shower (in the narrowest bathroom I have ever seen) drugged up and slept for a bit. Not wanting to spend the rest of the evening in my room, I ventured out again. I wanted to give the city another chance.



In front of the Duomo.

Children playing soccer outside the Duomo.

I left my map behind, so I had to use my best sense of direction to find the Duomo. Luckily, it wasn’t too far from my hotel – about 15 minutes walk and I had seen signs for it on my earlier walk. I stopped in for about 30 minutes. I needed to just find some solace from the dirt and noise outside. It is hard to comprehend the massive space inside some of these cathedrals. I can see how worshipers would just sit (probably stand) back in awe at God’s immense grandeur. I found my bit of peace and gave up on the site seeing for the evening. 

Near the Castle in Naples.

I have internet at this hotel and so I am content to enjoy my caprese salad – McDonalds style - and my crème caramel pudding. I have to catch a 7am train to La Spezia in the Cinque Terre tomorrow, so I hope to make it an early night.